”Surfers live in a paradoxical universe - the best surf spots are closely guarded secrets (hint: you won’t find any revealed in our book) and yet the culture is constantly on public display in fashion, art, film and music.
Our project peels back the layers: the craft and passion that goes into building surfboards by hand, the risks and fears surfers must overcome to make surfing a central part of their lives, and the dedication it takes to forge a pro career. It’s not always beautiful, joyful or easy, but surfing does offer huge rewards.
The book includes interviews with local legends like Tony Caramanico and Mikey De Temple, talented pros like Sam Hammer, Maddie Peterson, Quincy Davis and Balaram Stack, and surf culture luminaries like Pulitzer Prize winning author William Finnegan and photographer Michael Halsband. The interviews and swells we documented are supported by four compelling essays that take you beneath the surface of local surf culture:
Surfers, Shapers, Stewards & Documentarians. ”
Read more, Support and pre-order the book at their IndieGoGo campaign here:
Also we recommend the very good podcast by Swell Season Radio with Ed Thompson & Julien Roubinet that you can listen here: