Tom, how was the trip in Lofoten?
Really good, we didn’t have so much waves, but it was really good. It was amazingly beautiful with the mountains and sea.
How did the locals react to your group of traveling surfers?
They were very helpful. The fishermen showed us places to go.
Did you have any experience of surfing in northern hemisphere before Lofoten?
I’ve been in Norway once but only at a wave machine. I was in the Outer Hebrides (Scotland). That was different, really wild.
You’ve been in Lofoten in April, but the locals are really stoked up there and surf all winter long, could you imagine yourself doing the same?
The water wasn’t that bad, I had a 5/4/3 and I was fine. I didn’t have to use the H bomb. But I imagine that the water in Sweden must be alot colder in winter!
Any other favorite cold water destinations?
I really think that there is so much room for exploration in cold water spots, wherever they are. Wetsuits are so good nowadays, it opens up more possibilities
Where would you like to explore, what part of the world would be interesting?
Africa, there has to be alot more great waves there. I would like to travel in Africa, so much to see. And Asia. I’ve been in Indo alot but other parts of asia would be something.
What’s your favorite wave?
Home. Somedays at home can get so good, with good swell and wind. Also cause it’s my backyard. Mundaka is one of the best waves I’ve seen.
Is style important in surfing?
Yes but It’s mostly important to have a good technique.
You have had some amazing contests like the OP pro at Huntington beach and Bells. What is the best venue for contest surfing?
Hawaii, it just the energy there.
You’re known for your effortless stylish surfing, who inspired your surfing when you was a grom?
Definitely Mark Richards.
How’s the music going? You just got back from being on tour.
It’s going good. We´re getting a lot of gigs, we are at a point where we have to turn down offers to play. I have a great band. I have known these guys for a long time, 15 years and we have a great relationship. And you need that, especially on the road.
Do the other band members surf?
The bassist surfs. The drummer doesn’t but we are trying to get him in the water.
Any album projects?
Yes! I’m working on right now. I hope it will be ready this year!
Is there any connection between music and surfing in sense of impact on style?
There is a feeling. It adds alot I think.
When you moved to France, many people were a bit surprised. Are there any aspects of the European lifestyle that you brought back home to California?
Food (laughs). Also the way people talk and interact with each other is different, friendlier. In California, there can be this blasé attitude sometimes.
In 1990 you started Surfrider Foundation in Europe. What made you decide to start it in France?
When I started it I really wanted to get out a lot of information about what was going on on the coast, like development and water quality issues and it really developed from there. I knew all the right people in California and I coodinated things between France and the U.S. Simply, got them together and talking.
Do you feel that it is developing the way you invisioned it?
Yes, because the people who are working with Surfrider are very good, they are genuinely interested. They are involved in a lot of different things now. People pay close attention to what is said the media in France and Surfrider has used the media to influence big companies. I’m really happy with what they doing.
Do you have any advice for the start-up phase of Surfrider Sweden/Scandinavia?
It’s important to get support from people outside surfing. Surfrider foundation is helping now with things that are not always concerning the surfers like the fishing industry. It’s good to utilise the Surfrider foundation structure and framework, trying to increase the number of people involved. More boaters, windsurfers, beachgoers, pretty much anyone that cares about water. Because the more people involved protecting the coast the better it is. Keep up the good work.
Intervju: Nordic Surfers Mag & Matthew Fader
Publicerad i Nordic Surfers Mag #2