Sunday was a good day, although it didn't start out as one. Chilly morning. Found Joel and his Volvo in a murky, dark parking-lot.
In the other car: Joao and Mange. We spent quite some time heading north only to be met by an almost flat location. A short drive and then yet another pancake spot. Surfable? Possibly but... no. We were puzzled. That forecast looked so bombproof. We needed a Plan C. Pronto.
Joel had been ripping Mediterranean swell the previous morning but was very keen to get into the water (give that man a duck's wake and he'll rip). I kept a happy face but pictured the hours of epic light disappear while sitting in a car.
So now what? Magnus had a solution. He warned that it would require more driving. At first, he was almost reluctant to speak. It turned out that the problem was actually... me.
With not much more than a surfboard to carry, it would be a piece of small and delicious pastry to make it to the stoney shore that was now our target destination. But these surfers were stuck with a guy, who dragged three cases of camera equipment behind him plus that little stupid stool he insists on placing his butt on while shooting.
The solution turned out to be like a Beatles song. (”With A Little Help From My Friends”). That, plus going the extra mile finally brought us to a surprisingly heavy swell. ”How the f@©≤could conditions be so different?”
Joao was stoked, even if he had to abort early, suffering from a leaking boot. Magnus was stoked, and possibly somewhat relieved that the location actually delivered. As he had previously said at the beginning of our journey: ”This one is a bit of a lottery”.
And Joel was obviously super-stoked to be back in chilly temperatures again. And I was stoked by not being the logistic problem that I first feared – and to return with these shots.
Magnus once made a promise not to give away the location. I won't do either. Therefore, many of these pics have been tampered with (objects moved, erased and whatnot).
Hope this doesn't feel too off-putting. This place only works when very specific criteria are met. In addition, you may also thank us for saving yourself that long, strenuous walk...